(The New York Times) : IN Krakow, Poland’s second city, comparisons are unavoidable. The Old Town’s stately main square, ringed by outdoor cafes and dominated by the twin spires of a magnificent church? Like Prague’s, but larger. The hilltop castle lording over a languorous river? Like Budapest’s, but older. The rollicking night-life scene thumping in grimy tenements? Like Berlin’s, but tamer. But this rejuvenated city now also packs some original surprises.